The FCO has recently downgraded its warning about
travel to Afghanistan. It's still a pretty strong discouragement against going on anything other than essential business, but the fact that it says anything other than
abandon hope all ye who enter here
(which is a reasonable paraphrase of the previous warning) is a positive sign about the country's stabilisation. A long road ahead, but at least this is a sign of progress....
Now that I've started actually making plans for September - January I'm getting excited about it. Over the weekend Peter & I (he'll be with me for the first part of my journey, and he was in Dartmoor with us) sketched roughly what we'll do for September, and yesterday I started to flesh out October. It's all becoming real, and looking like I might actually make it.
A surprising number of people (considering that I'm ending up doing roughly what I had in mind 18 months ago, even though I entertained and then rejected various other ideas in between) are surprised when I tell them that I'm going on more than a long holiday. I guess part of the reason is that most of my off-line friends never read this page, seeming to consider it somehow beneath them (it's not like I cry myself to sleep over this, but it does annoy me a little, especially when they then express surprise at what I've been up to), but even so I think I'll take this opportunity to outline my plans here.
The most important thing, which I have told everyone close to me again and again but everyone without exception seems to forget occasionally is that I am not going on a trip away with a planned return date to the UK. I am leaving the UK, and
I may never live in Europe again. If I do come back to the UK, the earliest will be autumn 2003, and that is pretty unlikely. There's a good chance I'll move back to familiar territory when I have my PhD, but that means 4 - 7 years from now. That alone should explain why I've been planning this in my mind for so long, and why it's so important to me at this late stage to get the planning right.
I had at various stages entertained plans that were never executed, and which I told some people about and never got around to mentioning others. I was considering going to Sierra Leone to teach ICT to former child soldiers. The group who were organising this don't seem to have got their act together, but the main reason I didn't follow this through was fear for my safety. I still think it would be a very good thing to do, but it seems to involve too high a risk of ending up as the hostage of some rebel group with more guns than sense; otherwise I would have pursued this idea and made it happen, even if I had to spend a few months in Britain or
Norway first. My other big idea was to crew boats and see if I could wend my way to New Zealand via Panama and the Pacific islands. I still romantically like that idea, but I think the solitude of the open water would become monotonous after a few weeks, and it seems like a missed opportunity to see many cultures and ways of life.
What I am actually doing is travelling overland as far as Singapore, and then getting to New Zealand via Sydney. I intend to spend September in Eastern Europe (specifically some or all of the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Croatia, Hungary, Poland, Lithuania & Latvia - I suspect I won't see all of those places in the time I have), October travelling across Russia and Mongolia (Moscow - Beijing via Yekaterinburg, Irkutsk, Ulaan Uday & Ulaan Baatar), November travelling across China (itinerary still very vague, but to include Xian, Shanghai & Hong Kong if at all possible - I'd like to see the Takla Makan as well, but I think I'll leave Western China until Afghanistan is more stable, at which point I'd like to visit the Turkic republics of central Asia and incorporate Xinjiang in that trip), and December in some out of Vietnam, Lao, Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia & Australia. I want to be in a non-christian country for Christmas (just because Christmas Day would be mighty dull and somewhat depressing in any place that shuts down as much for it as Britain), but in Sydney by the New Year, partly because it looks pretty spectacular, and partly to meet up with my Québecoise friend in a third continent. It looks at the moment like I'll be flying from Jakarta to Sydney towards the end of December.
Then, early in January, I want to get to New Zealand, and stay with my friends there until I can find a job, at which point I'll move to whichever city I can find a tolerable but not too demanding job in. I want to have weekends free so I can actually travel within the country, and this is meant to be a break between the intellectual challenge and intense workload I'm experience now, and a similar challenge on a PhD later in 2003. I just need to earn enough money to be able to afford to stay in New Zealand indefinitely; if I can save some up so much the better, but NZ is not the place to go with that objective - I've been warned that pay won't match UK levels, though the cost of living is apparently very low.
In September or October 2003 I want to be starting my PhD, because while I'm in no great hurry I don't want to procrastinate forever. There's a better than evens chance I'll find myself in the USA - either New England or California - and failing that I'm still unlikely to study in the UK. Hence why if I do live in the UK again it's unlikely to be within 4 years - that's a year of not studying, followed by a minimum of 3 years on a PhD, up to 6 if I'm in the States.
I still have a lot to do to make this a reality, but the last few days have seen major parts fall into place, and it's a great feeling. August is not going to be a fun month for me (6 day weeks, long hours, and evenings spent applying for PhDs), but I think this anticipation will keep me going.